I get my kicks on Route 66
We left Inverie at 7am, it was nice to have a lie in after a session in the Old Forge. We had some good wind, but it was mostly just off the nose, so we spent much of the day close hauled and motor sailing. We did get some good sailing first thing in Loch Nevis and last thing as we rounded Ardnamurchan Point. Passing east of the island of Eigg the sea was lumpy and it hampered our progress and was rather frustrating. Mark and I took it in turns to have a sleep down below and that helped to pass the time.
Since leaving Whitehills, heading north across the Moray Firth, we have had ten days of varied sailing. The most exciting highlights have included crossing the Pentland Firth, visiting The Orkneys, sailing into Loch Eriboll, rounding Cape Wrath and sailing into Kinlochbervie. But sailing down the fantastic rocky shores of this part of Scotland, with amazing scenic ways in, for example to Loch Torridon, to Ullapool and to Inverie, has been incredible. And in terms of our original ambition, to sail round the UK, having reached Tobermory today, we have completed the circle and made the connection. Our route last year included turning back at Tobermory and cutting through the Caledonian Canal to reach Whitehills in the east. So now, at least by our own ‘rules’ (so for example not including going round the north of Shetland or the west of St Kilda) we have sailed round the UK. It took 59 days last year, but three were to get through the Canal. So, using a devious logic, if we take 56 from last year plus ten from this year our fragmented but now complete UK sailing tour has taken 66 days, lets call it ‘Route 66’.
In our Pilot
guide book, Martin Lawrence argues that: ‘…most sailors would agree that the
best that Scotland has to offer the cruising yachtsman [sic] does not begin
until you have rounded Ardnamurchan.’ Due to shortage of time, partly because
we had to spend four days hiding from the storm in Ullapool, we have not spent
sufficient time north of Ardnamurchan Point to really explore the area
properly. It was great to anchor at St Mary’s Bay on The Orkneys as well as an
overnight at Stromness, but we could easily have spent a couple of weeks just
sailing round the Orkneys. It was brilliant to anchor overnight in Loch Eriboll
but that is not sufficiently sheltered for anyone to want to stay long. Once
round Cape Wrath and into Kinlochbervie it would have been great to spend a
couple of weeks exploring some of the remote anchorages up there in the far
north. And we sailed past so many tempting places on the way back down to here.
No doubt we will need to visit the far north again, perhaps feeling safer and
faster on a bigger boat, if the Lottery will provide.
I guess tonight
is a time for reflecting on our journey, whilst having a beer and a curry.
Going round the top and coming down the far north-west of Scotland has been a
very appropriate icing on the cake, but we do have fond memories of warm sunny
days down south. First though is a much
needed shower, our last one was in Ullapool leisure centre one week ago, and
Kindred Spirit is a perfectly formed but fairly small boat.
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