North Sea Sunrise

Another 3am start to catch the tidal flow. We are leaving Whitehills to head out of the Moray Firth and into the North Sea, rounding Rattray Head to reach the large fishing and oil port of Peterhead. It is 1st July 2021.

The wind is from the north, so it is useful but too light to really give us much speed. Before the sun rises, the sea feels dark and lumpy. Every few minutes a set of surprisingly large rollers come through and they are steep enough to divert our course and require some response by whoever is at the helm. We follow the line of the shore and the previously sandy beaches turn to grim-visaged cliffs with a clear line of breakers smashing into them just about a mile from us. With the wind blowing onshore it feels serious. The sun rises above the horizon as a gold disc and brings us light and hope but the water surface remains dark. The rising sun is soon obscured by a bank of clouds. We have to wait another long hour before it breaks through and offers us any warmth. It does now light up the surface of the sea and brings a pink glow even to the cliffs. Everything becomes more friendly and enjoyable and we start to see some progress past small villages of white cottages clustered in the bays. They look great places to spend the summer but surely most winter days in these north-facing bays are more likely to be endured than enjoyed.



It is slightly un-nerving to pass close to a 'target float'. A presumably old ship that is used by the armed forces for target practice. We half expect to get strafed by some low flying jets.

We reach the North Sea proper and turn southwards, running with the freshening wind. We have some help from the tidal flow and soon approach Rattray Head. With its lighthouse that lacks any red stripe, Rattray Head is a rather disappointing low-lying headland, but it feels at least like a key milestone on our journey southwards.


The shore has returned to low-lying with sandy bays and now the oil and gas industry becomes evident with various storage and processing installations. Finally, we approach our destination and call harbour control on the radio. A friendly voice gives us permission to enter and, having established that it is our first visit, kindly advises us on the route to the marina.

 The whole of Peterhead Bay is enclosed by long sea walls and as we enter the harbour a range of docks for fishing and the oil industry come into view. We head for the marina, tucked into the south-east corner and find a berth. Now for some sleep, a service on the engine, including an oil change, and perhaps some time to explore the town.

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