Shoreham is Real (May 26)

 Yesterday we nearly left this place, our posh marina of which we have become rather too well acquainted. But the Windy App said gusting to 30mph plus so we went back to bed. But today we decided to go for it. It was probably more to do with frustration than a considered nautical decision. We went through the marina lock and out of the shelter of the sea walls and found good sailing with no sign of the app predicted gusts but in nervous anticipation we took in a reef anyway. It is May 26th 2021.

Our passage plan was modest, we intended to struggle out to Beachy Head against the wind and tide but to arrive at the turn and benefit at least from some tidal assistance as we beat up against the wind past Newhaven, plan B, and Brighton marina, plan Z (we have become wary of posh marinas) to the delights of Shoreham. The sailing was rather bouncy and we were forced to tack out sea and then turn back, the forecast by Windy App of 17 gusting 26 turned out to be a steady 22 becoming steady 26 for short periods.

Shoreham has a small marina but is a working port. Although yachts are outnumbered by fishing boats, we found both the harbour master and the marina manager really helpful and easy going. It became so exciting getting into the harbour in a south-westerly blowing 26 mph that I forgot to call the harbour master on the radio to let him know we were coming in. He was cool and said it did look rather exciting on his web cam. We literally surfed on a final wave then felt relieved to have just about got away with it. There is a huge old lock at Shoreham but with a more modest lock for yachts and small fishing boats on the left-hand side. At last, having a mountaineer on the boat was useful because one of us had to climb up and down a rusty ladder to ‘do the paperwork’. The timbers on the lock have such big gaps that our yachtie fenders disappeared into the spaces and some quick thinking was required to maintain avoid any scritches.

I had managed to phone the marina manager in advance and Graham was very generous with advice about the approach to the harbour. As soon as we were on the pontoon we walked up the chandlers to sign in. Given the online sales challenge to chandlers I must admit I expected to find another token set up with minimal stock. What we found was a full-on traditional chandlery that Graham has run for 50 years. We had helpful advice and a good crack with Graham and his colleague and came away with half a dozen small but crucial bits and pieces including gear for setting up our spinnaker, a sail which is yet to be deployed. We were directed to the best local for a pint and the nearest pub for grub.

The highlight of our stay in Shoreham came at 3.45am. We were up and ready to go and listened to the local fisherman casually booking their place in the first lock. Needless to say, formal radio procedure was not completely observed. For example: ‘Shoreham Port, alright mate I am on my way’. The harbour master replied ‘morning Steve’. This made it seem slightly over the top to call in by opening with ‘Shoreham Harbour Master’ repeated three times followed by ‘Kindred Spirit’ repeated three times! To be honest I was so stressed I cannot actually remember how I coped with the right blend of formality and casual aside. The great thing was the harbour master was completely cool and just said Hi! as if I was one of the locals. We shared the lock with half a dozen rough and ready working fishing boats and had a particularly gnarly traditional boat alongside. We had such an interesting chat, at 4am, with the young lad on his own on that boat as co-operated with fenders and ropes and waited for the lock to empty. This lad Jamie had got his own boat and was working alone, which he acknowledged was not ideal, to make a living. His attitude was down to earth and direct, ‘you make the best of it’ and ‘you do what you can to make it safe’. Whilst chatting he kindly anticipated a bit of crisis as the lock swirled with currents and deployed one of his large fenders to prevent any possible damage to the yacht. Maybe I just need to get out more, but I was impressed by Jamie’s determination and pragmatic approach, we wished him well as sped out of the harbour for probably one of his more enjoyable days with the sea completely calm. After a week of having to do this and that on shore, due to the high winds, he was keen to get back out there. We left the harbour with the fishermen onto a glassy sea with the moon sinking slowly to the south.

Shoreham, a genuine place with welcoming locals, put it on your list of places to visit. Having enjoyed ‘roughing it’ on anchor in Folkestone harbour and now having experienced the real working port of Shoreham maybe we need to look for the less obvious overnight stops on this trip?